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  • Writer's pictureGus

Catalonia

When I handed in my thesis, it was all over but the shouting. I still had to defend it, but that was a mere formality at this point. Now it was about going for a long drive, forget the destination. I wanted to take to the open road and get lost in the European landscape. My year abroad was coming to an end, but I was already looking at the next crazy venture.


As is tradition, I began by blasting Bruce Springsteen’s Born to Run before pulling out of the parking lot. Beneath the blacktop anthem was the low hum of the road stretching in all directions. I never thought to look back, my sights were put on the journey ahead. I wasn’t going far though; this would be a local expedition through Catalonia’s Costa Brava.


My first stop was the Marimurta Botanical Garden. Hidden away in the small town of Blanes, it’s a tragically elusive stop unknown to many. I spent the morning wandering around its over 4,000 species of plants and flowers. It is a beautifully diverse ecosystem that comes to life with every step you take.


But as I turned the corner to continue my stroll, I was hit with the garden’s true distinguishing element: an awe-inspiring view of the Mediterranean Sea. And at the edge of the cliff upon which it stands, there is a classical-style gazebo from where you can take in the immensity of the water, and listen to it meet the rock down below.



That afternoon would find me in Tossa de Mar, infiltrating its walls and wandering around its fortress’ cobblestone walkways. I did so all the way to the ruins of the Església Vella de Sant Vicenç. I sadly missed out on the guitar concerts they apparently give on Thursday evenings, but it was an ideal spot to admire the bay, breathe the ocean air, and be present.


Once in the car, I chose to take the scenic route through the Massís de l'Ardenya.


This is one of the best-conserved examples of the Costa Brava’s original landscape. The highway is a two-way street that borders the massif’s coastline. Covered with the green of its native Cork Oaks and other trees and shrubs, it is peppered with viewpoints where you can pull over to admire the immensity of the Mediterranean.


The road bent and curved, I sped up at some points and slowed down at others. I was taking the long way.


I woke up in Palamós the following day and made my way to Platja de Castell. This is an area surrounded by pine forests and agricultural land. Though slightly removed from town, it is still a popular beach. And if you go to its left end, you will find the archeological site of the Iberian village of Castell, a 1st Century settlement.


This is where my day truly began. From there, I hiked along the coast, from cove to cove. The water was a Caribbean blue that served as a welcome respite from the trail and the scathing sun. I took the narrow pass as far as the fourth cove before turning back. Once at the Barraca d’en Dalí, I was well on my way.



My journey came to an end in Cadaqués. A beautiful hillside village that was once home to Salvador Dalí. This is a perfect place to roam in admiration of its Mediterranean-style white houses, and along its harbor. A walk to the Far de Cala Nans is a nice little getaway, but it makes for a hot excursion under the sun. Cala sa Sabolla was a welcome stop on the way.


Not far from town is the Far del Cap de Creus, another lighthouse with its own story to tell. This point is host to its own set of coves and a series of hiking routes that vary in difficulty. Some of these seem very well maintained, while others nurtured the adventurer in me with their overgrowing wilderness.


Once again, I climbed behind the steering wheel and drove off…


On my way back to Barcelona, I stopped by Figueres to experience the Dalí Theater Museum. It’s a wonderfully weird look into the artist’s genius. Dalí himself rebuilt the theater that hosted his first-ever exhibition and prepared an immersive experience of his universe so that his art could live on in the very city he was born.


Only four days had passed since I left my life behind and drove into summer. Now I was leaving the freedom I found on the road to put my sight on reality. But Barcelona isn’t reality per se… and in only two weeks’ time, I would be across the Atlantic, discovering San Francisco and Silicon Valley. The adventure would continue, as it ever does on the road…



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